Goblins, Scorpions and Slot Canyons (Oh My!)

Prevent Wildfires Please practice fire safety and review locations of active wildfires in Utah. Learn more

San Rafael Swell | Matt Hage

A family adventure in The Swell

Driving towards “The Swell,” you realize how appropriate the nickname really is once the San Rafael Anticline dominates the horizon. It appears as a massive 75-mile-long wave of sandstone that rose up about 60 million years ago and has yet to crest. Over the eons, weathering has transformed it into a geologic wonderland. My family arrived for a week of exploring slot canyons, towering cliffs and spectacular rock formations — all minutes from ‘home,’ since we’re based out of our travel trailer on the primitive side of Goblin Valley State Park. The Park’s 78 sites nestled in the rock formations ‘Behind the Butte’ cannot be reserved, but we found plenty of options that afternoon when we turned onto the dirt road and set up in a deep cul-de-sac of fantastic rock formations. It was exactly what we were looking for.

“Hey you know what, this is like walking through a geology museum,” exclaimed our son as we started up Bell Canyon. An ardent rockhound, he was spot on about the exposed sedimentary strata towering hundreds of feet above us, laid down during the Middle Jurassic Period 170-million years ago when dinosaurs thrived here. The geology lesson got more intimate a few hours later as we squeezed through the slots of Little Wild Horse Canyon, closing an eight-mile loop. A couple days later we upped the ante in nearby Ding and Dang canyons. While still a spectacular walk through geologic time, this challenging six-mile hike required more of our attention, featuring a handful of significant drops, rigged fixed rope or webbing for lowering yourself hand-over-hand — definitely not for the faint of heart.

Whether in a tent or an RV, camping in the desert is its own attraction. It was always nice returning to our spot in the rocks after squeezing through canyons, exploring the whimsical Entrada Sandstone hoodoos and touring The Swell. Our son organized the unique rocks he collected on excursions outside the state park, adding to a daily display. At night, he led missions to find scorpions using an ultraviolet light. They were at once fascinating and unnerving, a clear warning from nature to look but don’t touch. Back in the light of our campfire, we relaxed and watched the shadow play on the sandstone walls as planets and constellations moved across the sky. After our bug hunt in the dark, the fire brought a primal sense of safety. That is, until a neighbor let me know that most creepy crawlies are actually attracted to the heat and light. Ah, don’t you just love the desert.

Riding the Wild Horse Mountain Bike Trail System means traveling through the spectacular desert landscape of Goblin Valley State Park.

Photo: Matt Hage

We found the trails to be very well marked and easy to follow. You can access them via an upper trailhead or straight out of the campground.

Photo: Matt Hage

The park currently offers about seven miles of purpose-built mountain bike trails arranged in five interconnected loops rated from beginner to intermediate.

Photo: Matt Hage

We recommend doing the hike in a clockwise direction, beginning with the gentler Bell Canyon and saving the more dramatic tight, twisty slots of Little Wild Horse for the finale. Either way, allow about four hours to complete the hike.

Photo: Matt Hage

We walked out into the sea of hoodoos that make up the core of Goblin Valley State Park. The otherworldly landscape is famous for its thousands of mushroom-shaped sandstone formations. Visitors are encouraged to freely hike, climb and wander off-trail among the "goblins".

Photo: Matt Hage

Located just a bit west of the popular Little Wild Horse-Bell Canyon, we decided to up the ante with a hike into Ding and Dang canyons.

Photo: Matt Hage

We took the recommendations to travel counterclockwise, climbing up the obstacles in Ding and thrutching down the crux sections of Dang. Some of these drops included lowering hand-over-hand down webbing fixed to bolt anchors. Challenging indeed!

Photo: Matt Hage

This six-mile loop is known as one of the state’s most adventurous non-technical canyon hikes.

Photo: Matt Hage

We set up in Goblin Valley State Park’s ‘Behind the Butte’ primitive camping area. The park’s 78 sites nestled in the rock formations cannot be reserved, so you get what’s open on arrival.

Photo: Matt Hage

In addition to spontaneous availability, these sites offer a more remote, wilder feel than the regular state park campground.

Photo: Matt Hage

Each site has a picnic table and fire ring, which we used to cook pizzas with our pie irons. There are also outhouses spaced throughout the area.

Photo: Matt Hage

In the desert at night, nature’s denizens of the dark reveal themselves to ultraviolet light. Seeing so many scorpions was at once fascinating and unnerving. Luckily, they are not active during the day.

Photo: Matt Hage

Taking in the Buckhorn Wash Pictograph Panel on a drive through the northern part of San Rafael Swell. One of the most extensive and best-preserved pictograph sites in the country, the road-side stop features numerous interpretive signs about the Archaic Period figures created two to four thousand years ago.

Photo: Matt Hage

Just a couple miles from the pictograph panel is a single dinosaur footprint frozen in time right off the side of the road. Created by a medium-to-large Theropod (a bipedal, meat-eating dinosaur) about 150-million years ago, the three long, sharp toes are perfectly defined in the rock.

Photo: Matt Hage

It’s a good day that ends at Ray’s Tavern, capping a full day of touring dirt roads through The Swell with a burger and beverage at this Green River institution.

Photo: Matt Hage

Taking in the “Little Grand Canyon” from The Wedge Overlook. The drive-up viewpoint allows a sky-high view all the way down to the San Rafael River thousands of feet below. A trail network for hikers and bikers follows the cliff top.

Photo: Matt Hage

An avid rockhound, our son found a geologic haven in the exposed strata and abundant geodes found in the canyons of San Rafael Swell. It is “look-but-don’t-touch” inside the state park, but collecting a few rocks for personal-use is generally allowed on neighboring public land managed by BLM.

Photo: Matt Hage

The San Rafael Swinging Bridge (often simply called the CCC Suspension Bridge) is a historic wooden and steel cable suspension bridge that spans the San Rafael River in the northern section of the San Rafael Swell. Built in 1937, it is a fascinating relic of Great Depression-era engineering and holds a distinct title: for decades, it was the only bridge spanning the San Rafael River, turning a notoriously treacherous, isolating water crossing into a reliable route for locals.

Photo: Matt Hage

Another perfect sunset over Wild Horse Road leading into ‘The Reef’ of San Rafael Swell.

Photo: Matt Hage

Tips for Dispersed RV & Van Camping

Abundant dispersed camping opportunities surround Goblin Valley State Park on Bureau of Land Management lands in the San Rafael Swell. Unlike the park’s developed campground, these areas offer a more natural feel with no water or trash services, requiring campers to be self-sufficient, and practice Leave No Trace principles.

The most popular camping area lies along Wild Horse Road west of the park. Three designated camping zones, East, West, and North are tucked among sandstone outcrops and small canyons. These sites are first-come, first-served, and offer picnic tables and fire rings. Plus, vaulted toilets are maintained throughout the area. Area kiosks provide site locations, campsite type (RV, car, or tent), and basic roads, though campers should always scout road conditions before driving to campsites.

These sites provide easy access to Little Wild Horse Canyon, Bell Canyon and Goblin Valley’s famous hoodoo formations. Additional designated camping areas can be found along the Temple Mountain Road that offers expansive desert views. (Read: The Underrated Trails Within the San Rafael Swell)

For quieter, more primitive experience, dispersed camping is also permitted along Behind-the-Reef Road and portions of Temple Mountain Road outside the designated areas. Road conditions to these areas can vary with weather and may become impassable after rain. High clearance vehicles are recommended for many secondary roads, so be sure to carry extra water, fuel and emergency supplies when heading into more remote areas.

Be Prepared for Desert Adventures

Goblin Valley’s striking landscape may look inviting, but it’s important for hikers to be well-prepared. First, know your trail before you go. Research the distance, elevation gain and loss, difficulty, estimated hiking time and any current trail conditions. Then confirm the details with a second source such as another app, a park brochure, a physical map, or a park ranger. Cell service is limited so download maps ahead of time and let someone know your plans. (Read: Utah Trail Guide: Best Resources for Maps and Trail Navigation)

Once you’re confident about your trail, it’s time to check the weather. It’s important to know daytime temperatures but to also check for potential rain in the area. Flash flooding can occur in narrow canyons even when skies overhead appear clear. You can also find the National Weather Service flash flood forecast on the state park’s website.

Shade is scarce throughout much of the park and temperatures in and around Goblin Valley State Park can get quite hot during spring, summer and even early fall. So, make sure to pack plenty of water! (Read: How Much Water to Pack for Your Utah Adventure) For longer outings aim for at least one gallon per person per day. Don’t forget sunscreen and a brim hat, and lightweight light-colored clothes to keep the sun off your skin. And don’t forget sturdy footwear especially if you plan to venture beyond the main valley or into nearby slot canyons.

Whether you're wandering among the park's famous sandstone "goblins" or exploring the surrounding desert wilderness, a little preparation can make your adventure safer and more enjoyable.

Explore San Rafael Swell

About the Author – Matt Hage

A life-long Alaskan, photographer Matt Hage studied photojournalism after a stint in the U.S. Air Force and got his start at the local newspaper. He was an early adopter of combining storytelling imagery with remote, adventurous topics. This led to projects in the great mountain ranges and river systems around the world. Even though he has moved on from reportage to more commercial projects, pursuing interesting stories still drives his work. Today Hage spends much of the year traveling with his wife and son. The family still calls Alaska home and bases in their Airstream trailer during extended periods on the road.