Best Rock Climbing in Utah
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Logan
Logan Canyon has great sport rock climbing, boasting over 400 bolted routes, ranging from novice climbs to one of Utah's highest-rated routes. And Blacksmith Fork Canyon — a limestone canyon — is home to a fine collection of moderate to advanced sport routes, with a bit of bouldering in the mix as well. A nice, quiet sanctuary to push your limits.
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Maple Canyon
Maple Canyon in Central Utah is widely known as a go-to spot to beat the summer heat — thanks to ample shade. The area features more than 550 routes that are easily accessed from the road and hiking trails. Climbing grades range in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.14. Rock in the canyon consists of cobblestone-sized conglomerate that has eroded to form cliffs and an impressive natural arch. Maple Canyon is also one of the state’s best ice climbing areas, but the canyon road closes in winter so climbers should prepare to hike in.
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Moab
The deserts of southeastern Utah have always tempted rock climbers. Moab provides central access to the greatest collection of legal desert spires in the U.S., such as Castleton Tower and Fisher Towers. Eleven miles from the middle of Moab, off the Colorado River corridor on State Hwy. 128, Big Bend Boulders offer an experience in Wingate sandstone scrambling on 16 climbable boulders, with more at the riverside.
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Ogden
There are several bouldering areas around Ogden. Castle Rock accesses the Bonneville Shoreline Trail and the Upper Boulder Field where there are many challenging boulder obstacles. Patriot Crack area is a hike in from the trail. The Salomon Center downtown features the largest climbing wall in Utah. The 9th Street and School Room crags are great areas for moderate sport climbs, top ropes and even some bouldering. Many of the established climbs are perfect for beginners or casual climbers — single pitch routes with lots of top rope potential.
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Salt Lake City
Just east of Salt Lake City has some of the best climbing in the country, with quartzite climbs in Big Cottonwood Canyon, and granite climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort, in Little Cottonwood, has a competition-class climbing wall and offers lessons in summer. There are over 20 established locales for bouldering in Little Cottonwood, including five bouldering sites of varying difficulty south of Snowbird Resort. Big Cottonwood has four major bouldering areas. Bell's Canyon is a less known, but fine bouldering area. There is a signed trailhead off Wasatch Boulevard. In Draper, above 2000 East are the Main Bouldering Area and The Water Tower Area, with many challenging scattered boulders.
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St. George
St. George offers access to some of Utah's most challenging climbing and bouldering, including aid climbing on the "Big Walls" in Zion National Park, sport climbs in the Virgin River Gorge and a base for three bouldering adventures, Pioneer Park, Green Valley Gap and Moe's Valley.
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Zion National Park
Legendary for its world-class multi-pitch trad climbs, Zion is a climber's mecca. Spaceshot (5.7, C2) and Moonlight Buttress (5.8,C1) are among the most well-known aid climbs anywhere. Great rock all around, big walls and memorable desert landscapes await.
"Whether it's a short scramble over a boulder field, or spending a whole day on a super technical 5.10 route, Utah offers climbers all the challenges they can handle."
Climbing in Utah 101
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Aid Climbing
Aid climbing refers to climbs where the climber weighs pieces of protection to get farther up a climb. Small ladders, rope pendulums and hand-pulled pieces of webbing all play a part. The counterpart to aid climbing is free climbing—where gear is intended only to protect from a fall, not to be weighted or used to advance up the climb.
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Bouldering
Bouldering is done without ropes and tends to focus on short, precise problems. Crash pads used in conjunction with human spotters minimizes injuries. Bouldering is usually done close to the ground, but "high-balling" stretches the definition by pushing unroped climbing 25 feet or higher.
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Indoor Climbing
"Pulling plastic" is a fun way to stay in shape, learn climbing fundamentals and hone movement skills. Most indoor gyms feature bouldering areas, top ropes and lead climbs of all levels. Indoor gyms are a great place for kids and families as well.
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Multi-Pitch Climbing
Multi-pitch climbing can be sport or trad. These climbs require climbing teams to set up anchors and belay stations along the route. A lead climber will set an anchor, then belay the second (or more) climber(s) up. From there, the next lead pitch runs out from the anchor point.
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Sport Climbing
Sport climbing uses pre-placed anchors and bolts. Climbers are able to focus on technique without worrying about protecting the climb beyond placing quickdraws and tying into an anchor. Sport climbing can be single-pitch or multi-pitch.
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Trad Climbing
Traditional climbing requires climbers to place protective gear as they ascend. Most trad climbs require anchor building skills as well.