Roughin' It

5 DAYS
655 MILES
This itinerary is designed for self-sufficient, budget-conscious travelers.

Willing to bring a sleeping bag and leave the pavement behind every once in a while? If you can handle getting your car a little dusty, this five-day itinerary will put you smack dab in the middle of the great outdoors. And with 300 days of sunshine a year, Southern Utah offers a pretty dang good chance of perfect camping weather. And the best part? This itinerary is designed for budget-conscious travelers. Just make sure you come prepared because some of the stops along the way are backcountry in the truest sense of the word.
 
Start your road trip in the canyons and mountains around Capitol Reef National Park. You’ll see everything from towering monoliths and stark desert landscapes to alpine meadows and panoramic vistas. You can scramble to the top of cliffs, hike through the river in a slot canyon, or explore the many lakes of a high plateau. You’ll even find some of the most scenic and popular fishing spots in the state.
 
The second half of your trip unfolds around Goblin Valley and the San Rafael Swell in some of the most ruggedly beautiful terrain in the world — a jumble of incredible buttes, pinnacles, canyons and mesas. You’ll have opportunities to tackle more slot canyons, off-road to hidden arches, climb 500-foot slabs of slickrock, or just enjoy a lifetime’s worth of views from the comfort of your car.

Day 1 80 Miles
FISH LAKE TO CATHEDRAL VALLEY
  • Fishlake Loop Scenic Drive
  • Thousand Lake Mountain
  • Cathedral Valley Backway

The Fishlake Loop is a paved scenic byway that is worth the drive alone. But we’ll soon leave the pavement for the gravel roads of Thousand Lakes Mountain and the Cathedral Valley Scenic Backway of Capitol Reef National Park. If you don’t have a high-clearance vehicle, you’ll have to skip Cathedral Valley and return down Thousand Lakes for the paved route. Regardless, road conditions could be challenging during spring visits or trips after heavy rain. Check at the visitor center for current conditions.


FISHLAKE LOOP SCENIC DRIVE

This road trip through lush mountain scenery and high sagebrush flats is highlighted by a visit to a very pretty alpine lake. There are several unpaved spur options to explore (including Thousand Lake Mountain), lodges, campgrounds and the Lakeshore National Recreation Area, home to Pando, the world’s heaviest organism.

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THOUSAND LAKE MOUNTAIN

You can drive Thousand Lake Mountain Road, a 35-mile scenic backway, from Fremont all the way through the Cathedral Valley section of Capitol Reef. Explore remote lakes and stand in awe surrounded by aspens. Don’t miss the Deep Creek Desert overlook.

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CATHEDRAL VALLEY BACKWAY

Solace seekers with wayfinding skills can set out across open backcountry for close-up looks at giant castle-like sandstone formations. A high-clearance vehicle is essential back here. There’s a river ford and some big bumps to negotiate. Go prepared for the unexpected.

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Day 2 35 Miles
CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK
  • Cohab Canyon to Grand Wash
  • Hickman Bridge + Navajo Knobs
  • Sulphur Creek

Today is a full day dedicated to the best hikes of Capitol Reef National Park. Well-conditioned and prepared hikers who start early may be able to tackle the lot, but Navajo Knobs itself is a 9.5-mile round-trip journey that climbs more than 1,500 feet. Regardless, if conditions permit, you’ll appreciate the cooling waters of the Sulpur Creek Trail as you scramble down the canyon back to your campsite after a full day of hiking. Camp in Capitol Reef or book a room in Torrey for a mid-trip mattress and shower.


COHAB CANYON TO GRAND WASH

Taken individually, the Grand Wash and Cohab Canyon are both excellent out-and-back hikes with distinct trails. Separate yourself from the crowd by combining the two with the Frying Pan Trail, an excellent exploration of the Waterpocket Fold. Arrange a shuttle or add 2.5 miles of hiking up the road.

HICKMAN BRIDGE + NAVAJO KNOBS

These front country hikes in Capitol Reef National Park lead to amazing rock formations and panoramic views of Southeastern Utah. Hickman Bridge is a short out-and-back (about 2 miles). The Rim Overlook and/or Navajo Knobs add 2.3 and 4.7 miles, respectively, for an elevated view of Capitol Reef’s tilted landscapes.

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SULPHUR CREEK

The perennial Sulphur Creek has cut a deep canyon that passes through the oldest exposed rocks at Capitol Reef. The difficult, but not technical, 5.5-mile one-way hike is best completed with shuttle vehicles. Check conditions at the visitor center and carry a map. Route conditions vary with weather. Image courtesy James St. John.

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Day 3 215 Miles
CAPITOL REEF TO SAN RAFAEL SWELL
  • Boulder Mountain
  • Burr Trail-Notom Road
  • Little Wild Horse to Ding & Dang

Today completes a full-day backcountry loop through a defining feature of Capitol Reef: the Waterpocket Fold. Turn down the All-American Road Scenic Byway 12 and consider a stop to explore the expansive timbered plateau of Boulder Mountain. At Boulder, veer east down the Burr Trail. It starts paved then turns to gravel before dropping down some eye-popping switchbacks into the national park. Turn north on Notom Road to complete your backcountry tour of Capitol Reef. Back on S.R. 24 you’ll head northeast toward the San Rafael Swell’s introduction to canyoneering: Little Wild Horse and Ding and Dang canyons.


BOULDER MOUNTAIN

Boulder Mountain sprawls over an expansive 50,000 acres and is the highest timbered plateau in North America. Whether you are in for hiking or rock climbing along the Great Western Trail, an ATV ride, or camping at Fish Creek Reservoir (among many lakes on the mountain), the scenery is epic.

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BURR TRAIL-NOTOM ROAD

The Burr Trail Scenic Backway is one of the most picturesque drives in Utah. A paved and graded gravel and dirt road passing through slickrock mountains and sandstone dunes, it extends from Boulder to Bullfrog Marina with a spur north through Capitol Reef on the Notom Road.

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LITTLE WILD HORSE TO DING & DANG

Little Wild Horse Canyon is a well-known classic and is a perfect intro to canyoneering for most ages and anyone in reasonable shape. Its trailhead is located 5 miles west of the Goblin Valley visitor center along an improved dirt road. Nearby Ding and Dang Canyons take it up a notch.

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Day 4 150 Miles
THE SAN RAFAEL SWELL
  • McKay Flat to Hondu Arch Backway
  • Hike the Little Grand Canyon
  • San Rafael Swell

The San Rafael Swell is a 70 by 40-mile geological upheaval located in Southeastern Utah. Relentless forces of erosion have cut, shaped and formed the land over thousands of years into a crazy assembly of sandstone buttresses, canyons and plateaus. This is your destination today. Start with a backcountry tour of the southern part of the swell then head north for the grand view of the Little Grand Canyon from the Wedge Overlook. Tempting, right? It’s a good hike. There’s a short option on nearby Buckhorn Draw or you could use this whole day and a car shuttle to hike the whole 14 miles.


MCKAY FLAT TO HONDU ARCH BACKWAY

These unpaved roads travel through the southern half of the San Rafael Swell and allow travelers to get deep in the region to explore it up close. The journey will take you past fierce, beautiful landscapes with rock towers, mesas and arches that expose the colorful rock layers of the Swell.

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HIKE THE LITTLE GRAND CANYON

The Little Grand Canyon is a centerpiece of the San Rafael Swell. A great day hike begins at the end of the unpaved Buckhorn Draw Road, following the river about three miles to Cane Wash. With extra time and a shuttle car, hike even further and camp under the stars.

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SAN RAFAEL SWELL

The Wedge Overlook is a good place to begin exploring the northern Swell. The view from here offers a bird’s-eye perspective of the Little Grand Canyon, a 14-mile path cut by the San Rafael River. This 1,000-foot deep gorge reveals towering sandstone cliffs that overlook the lush canyon floor.

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Day 5 175 Miles
SAN RAFAEL SWELL TO MOAB
  • Kane Creek Road
  • Potash–Lower Colorado Drive
  • Fisher Towers

No outdoor camping trip in Utah is complete without a visit to the Moab area. If you wish, explore the two national parks that happen to be in the neighborhood. But this itinerary pushes you off the beaten path, exploring both sides of the Lower Colorado River on Kane Creek and the Potash Road before heading northeast along the Upper Colorado River toward Fisher Towers, one of the BLM’s premier hikes.


KANE CREEK ROAD

A fun diversion just outside the Moab bustle, the partially unpaved Kane Creek Road is a little desert treasure filled with magic, history and adventure. Check out Moonflower Canyon, camp on BLM land, or haul the bikes back to access the famed Amasa Back mountain biking trail.

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POTASH–LOWER COLORADO DRIVE

This 17-mile scenic byway’s origins lie in a potash mine and processing plant, but tourists tend to hit this road to access the Jeep trails, relics of prehistoric and ancient life, and hikes to stunning natural arches: Corona, Bow Tie and Jug Handle.

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FISHER TOWERS

The Fisher Towers are centerpieces of one of Southeastern Utah’s most bizarre landscapes. The 2.6-mile trail twists through the towers, dipping into sharp canyons and traversing beneath vertical cliffs to its far southern terminus, forming a 5.2-mile round-trip hike.

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