Vernal Equinox: A New Season in Vernal, Utah

Discover the growing adventure outpost in a geologically fascinating corner of eastern Utah.

Written By Andrew Dash Gillman

Fantasy Canyon | Clark Goldsberry

Just in case there is still confusion, the oil and coal that power our world are probably not the decayed remnants of dead dinosaurs. They’re much older than that. Dinosaurs and fossil fuels, however, are inextricably part of the Uinta Basin of eastern Utah. Here in Vernal, both visibly shape the town in lots of ways, from the influx of new development of hotels, stores and restaurants on the tide of the oil boom to the iconic "Dinah the Pink Dinosaur" that welcomes visitors as they travel through on family vacations.

Decades ago, University of Utah geology professor William Stokes dubbed Utah “The Bedrock State” for all its raw, unobscured rock. All the best formations for fossil research are on display out here, especially at Dinosaur National Monument, Red Fleet State Park and the Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum.

The iconic "Dinah the Pink Dinosaur" welcomes visitors as they travel through Vernal.

Photo: Marc Piscotty

At the Field House, the sounds of careful excavation drift in from the neighboring room while I master the complex geology in the introductory video. Of course, the excavation is just piped-in audio, but it sets a tone of anticipation.

A projection on the wall reads, "Mammals diversify and flourish." Somewhere in the tens of millions of years before or after the fall of dinosaurs, mammals began to take hold. And somewhere within that gradually expanding order emerged the predecessor to homo sapiens. My attention, though, is held by the Uintathere, a rather lumbering-looking, small-brained, saber-toothed mammal — a massive herbivore with several horns on its head. It dates back 45 million years and I wonder if there's a line to the last of the more familiar megafauna, like the life-size replica of a wooly mammoth gazing in through the window of the museum. Farther along, the massive skeleton of the Uintathere contrasts sharply with a display of skulls of the region's modern mammals, including the tiny specimens of a Uinta ground squirrel and chipmunk.

Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum

Photo: Mark T. Olser

On display at the Utah Field House.

Photo: Marc Piscotty

Dinosaur National Monument

Photo: Mark Osler

You could say that I revel in the history of life on earth as I ascend the ramp through geologic time. And I carry that sensation with me on other explorations near Vernal, like the McConkie Ranch Petroglyphs, a Utah Historic Site that combines ancient Fremont culture with a weird and wonderful privately owned “visitor center” up Dry Fork Canyon. It's a short drive from Vernal, but a good one. There are several scenic drives in the area, most notably the Flaming Gorge-Uintas National Scenic Byway, offering many miles of breathtaking views that are excellent both for a day of exploring or for trips that extend for a day or more in the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.

There are several scenic drives in the area, most notably the Flaming Gorge-Uintas National Scenic Byway.

Photo: Ryan Kelly

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The clean, modern building of the Vernal Brewing Company is across the street from the Utah Field House. An indie-hipster blend of music softly fills the dining area. Coconut Records. The Lumineers. The bar dispenses several types of housemade sodas: root beer, raspberry cream, orange cream. The harder stuff comes from the back of house and carries labels like Allosaurus Amber, .50 Caliber IPA and Little Hole Lager, named for the nearby Flaming Gorge-area national scenic trail on the Green River.

The house manager during my visit, Brendyn Houghton, said the brewery opened in 2013 and initially benefited from the oil boom. In recent years, they've focused on building the distribution side of the business and growing the local and tourist traffic the best way: “We make our own sodas, jams, dressings, beer and mixers in-house and have our own garden for a farm-to-table component.”

They also made the pickled hot mix on my excellent Cubano.

One of the other top spots in town, Betty’s Cafe, epitomizes the classic greasy spoon diner. Here, locals fill the cozy restaurant on a Sunday morning. A dozen free day-trip pamphlets line the wall near the front door, serving as an informal visitor center. (The Utah Field House also serves as a formal visitor center, and the helpful staff is very knowledgeable.) Plate-sized pancakes complete with thick slabs of ham pass before me, where I sit at the three-chair counter. Regulars banter with the staff about politics — something a presidential candidate stated has struck a nerve — but they are generally optimistic. Things are changing, but things do change. The town hangs tough.

Find more things to do in Vernal, Utah or browse places to camp in the area.

Vernal Brewing Company

Photo: Marc Piscotty

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About the Author – Andrew Dash Gillman

Andrew Dash Gillman is a marketing professional and freelance writer. He has written extensively in travel and outdoor recreation and for regional publications in Utah and New York. He is the editor of the third edition of Falcon Guide's "Hiking Utah’s High Uintas." He devotes his leisure time to running, writing a novel and tending an ever-expanding garden.

Vernal

Travel back in time to explore the wonders of the past in Vernal — also known as “Dinosaurland” — where you can delve into the world of dinosaurs and fossils. An ideal basecamp for visiting Dinosaur National Monument, Red Fleet State Park, Steinaker State Park or the Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum, the town is also a gateway to outdoor adventure, including hiking, mountain biking, rafting and more.

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Sandstone Spires & Swimming Holes

Walk the paths of dinosaurs and descend through 200 million years of geologic history in this six-day road trip from Vernal to Kodachrome Basin. It’s a kid-friendly desert drive in search of dino tracks, slot canyons and swimming,

Hiking, Dinosaurs, Kid-Friendly, History and Heritage, Scenic Drives/Road Trips

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