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48 Hours in Salt Lake City

Discover a vibrant city teeming with arts, nightlife and outdoor adventure.

Written By Crai Bower

Salt Lake City | Tyson Rider

Like the western rattlesnakes that shelter beneath boulders in the surrounding foothills, Salt Lake City (SLC) has shed its skin several times over the past few decades. SLC’s glistening modern identity reveals an urban hub teeming with arts, nightlife and energy that left me wishing for an extra day or two. While there are enough things to do in Salt Lake City to fill a week, travelers short on time can use this 48-hour itinerary to experience the best of Utah's capital.

Day 1: Downtown Vibe, Scenic Trails, and Local Brews

Settle Into Downtown

I’ve been a Salt Lake cruiser for years, usually zipping past downtown on my way to Park City or the legendary ski slopes and hiking trails of Little Cottonwood Canyon. So imagine my surprise when I finally checked into a downtown boutique hotel and explored the neighborhood on foot.

My first impression? Everyone is having a great time. Locals and visitors alike hang out on the Beerhive Pub terrace, catch live jazz, check out downtown craft breweries (Read: Discover the Breweries of the Wasatch Front), or queue up for events at the Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center. During college football season, the city buzzes with fans tailgating for the nationally-ranked Utah Utes. Must be something in that Wasatch Range elevation.

Bike shares make a lot of sense in Salt Lake City, given the relatively flat topography downtown.

Photo: Austen Diamond, Visit Salt Lake

Share a Bike and Bites

Bike-share programs have swept across North America, but they make exceptional sense here given Salt Lake City’s flat, accessible downtown grid. With stations every few blocks and a seamless mobile app, grabbing a bright green GREENbike cruiser is a no-brainer. The broad front baskets and optional panniers easily fit camera bags or local market finds.

I pedaled over to the Copper Common bar (a 21+ establishment), which offers a warm, energetic and hip vibe like its adjacent sister restaurant, The Copper Onion. Copper Common has an inventive, rotating menu highlighting local ingredients and American fare, but their CC Burger with Noord Hollander gouda and pickled onions is a menu staple. Paired with their signature smashed potatoes, you really can't go wrong.

Catch a "Living Room" Sunset

A living room sunset usually implies slouching on a couch in front of a window. Not in active SLC, where hiking trails disappear into the foothills from almost every neighborhood.

We started from the Natural History Museum of Utah parking lot for an evening saunter up the Living Room Trail. This 2.7-mile round-trip route leads to a photo-worthy plateau "furnished" with chairs and settees crafted entirely from loose sandstone rock. From this perch, the Great Salt Lake provides a striking canvas for the setting sun.

"SLC’s glistening modern identity reveals an urban hub teeming with arts, nightlife and energy."

The Living Room Trail in Salt Lake City's foothills is a 2.7-mile route that leads to a photo-worthy plateau.

Photo: Jay Dash

Hit the Local Pubs

I’m not sure why, but trolley barns and breweries seem to go together naturally in SLC. Desert Edge Brewery, founded in 1972 as a college watering hole, pioneered the city’s craft brewing scene. Located in historic Trolley Square, it complements house-made batches like Citra in Red and the Desert Hell Helles Lager.

Across town in the evolving Granary District (just a block from the 900 South Central Ninth neighborhood), you'll find two heavyweights in Utah brewing:

A. Fisher Brewing Company: A revival of a historic local brand. (Read: Rediscovering A. Fisher Brewing)
TF Brewing (Templin Family): Known for award-winning lagers and a massive patio.

Both spots feature rotating local food trucks, making them ideal places to spend a warm evening. Discover more of Utah's craft brewing scene in and around SLC.

Alongside its brews, A. Fisher Brewing Company features rotating food trucks, making it a great place to spend an afternoon or evening.

Photo: Shay Read

Salt Lake City boasts an impressive array of street art, including murals and installations.

Photo: Austen Diamond, Visit Salt Lake

Day 2: Culture, Neighborhoods, and Culinary Finds

A Morning Walk in the Garden

A quiet morning among local flora adds a refreshing contrast to a pub crawl the night before. I started my second day wandering through Red Butte Garden.

Even non-desert dwellers biased against cacti and succulents will appreciate this sanctuary. Broad blooms sit juxtaposed against outdoor sculptures and poetry displayed on iron frames. For families traveling with kids, the interactive Children’s Garden is a must-visit highlight.

Dinosaurs and Deep History

Utah is world-famous for its paleontological discoveries. And right next door to Red Butte Garden sits the Natural History Museum of Utah (NHMU).

Housed in an architectural marvel that sits directly into the foothills, the museum contains permanent exhibits featuring impressive dinosaur skeletons (including Allosaurus, Ceratopsians and Utahraptor) alongside rotating exhibits of global significance.

The largest botanical garden in the Intermountain West, Red Butte Garden tucks neatly into the foothills of Salt Lake City.

Photo: Andrew Burr

NHMU's paleontology collections comprise nearly 30,000 catalogued specimens,

Photo: Michael Kunde/Visit Salt Lake

Explore the 9th & 9th Neighborhood

Few indicators show off a city’s evolution better than its independent neighborhoods. 9th & 9th (located at the intersection of 900 East and 900 South) is a prime example of SLC's local charm (Read: Insider's Guide to Salt Lake City Neighborhoods). Restaurateur Scott Evans helped launch the area into its modern incarnation with his farm-to-table inspired Pago and nearby East Liberty Tap House.

Dining: Farm-to-table favorite Pago offers exceptional local seasonal dishes.
Sweets: Stop by Dolcetti Gelato for artisan gelatos and sorbets.
Shopping: Browse specialty clothing at The Stockist and Curriculum, or pop into The Children’s Hour bookstore.

Following 900 South westward toward Central Ninth, the corridor (also designated as Harvey Milk Boulevard) is lined with new dining, local boutiques, and artisan shops. I pick out a rose gold ring at The Land of Salt for my wife that she actually wears.

Downtown Dining & Nightlife

I make a rule of sitting at the bar when traveling alone, a fine way to capture the pulse of a town or, at the very least, gauge its friendliness. I’d say lively and amicable. Working my way through Bambara chef Nathan Powers’ “Snake River Farms Pork Shank,” my conversation with multiple locals yields a backcountry skiing invite, secret-fishing-hole intel and an enticement to Whiskey Street, a compelling urban saloon.

The walkable 9th & 9th neighborhood (located at the intersection of 900 East and 900 South) is a prime example of SLC's local charm.

Photo: Andrew Burr

Heading west along 900 South, you’ll find a playful tangle of colorful storefronts.

Photo: Tyson Rider

Arts and Architecture at Leisure

I may not call SLC’s growing downtown cozy, but it is very walkable, especially when out for a museum crawl:

Salt Lake City Public Library: Designed by Moshe Safdie, this architectural landmark features a six-story curving wall, rooftop garden vistas, and a bustling ground-floor plaza.
Utah Museum of Contemporary Art (UMOCA): Located near City Creek Center, offering groundbreaking local and national contemporary exhibits.
Temple Square: A 35-acre historic complex at the heart of the city, offering guided walking tours and rich local history. (Read: A Walking Tour of Temple Square)

To Market: Pioneer Park

True, every American city offers a Saturday Farmers’ Market, but Salt Lake’s bazaar rocks out, encompassing all of Pioneer Park. So if your visit falls on a summer weekend, be sure to check out the Downtown Farmers Market. The market fills an entire city block with regional produce, local honey, hand-crafted goods and live musicians playing everything from cello performance to Dixieland jazz.

After browsing, grab breakfast nearby at a local favorite like The Rose Establishment, located just north of the park along 400 West.

Local Flavors at Caputo’s

Leave extra room in your luggage for culinary souvenirs from Caputo’s Market & Deli. Known for its imported Italian goods and local artisan cheeses, chocolate and charcuterie, Caputo’s features a dedicated Cheese Cave that cheese lovers shouldn't miss (Read: "Six Utah Artisan Cheeses to Try Right Now"). Afterward, unwind next door at Carlucci's Bakery with fresh tea and biscotti.

Salt Lake offers a summer farmers market on Saturdays in Pioneer Park.

Photo: Downtown Alliance

The City Library exemplifies SLC’s ascendant spirit, a coliseum boasting a rooftop vista and garden patio that is not to be missed.

Photo: Downtown Alliance

Extend the Stay

While Salt Lake City's surrounding foothills and canyons offer plenty of outdoor adventure to extend your stay, also consider saving time for the hour's drive north to the Ogden area, where a whole other mountain of action awaits, including great mountain biking and hiking trails and fishing on the scenic Ogden River.

About the Author – Crai Bower

Crai S. Bower contributes scores of articles and photographs annually to more than 25 publications and online outlets including Alaska Airlines, Journey, National Geographic Traveler, T+L digital, and American Way. He recently received an ‘Excellence in Journalism' Award from the Society of Professional Journalists, his 5th national writing accolade in as many years. Learn more about Crai and see his recent work at FlowingStreamMedia.

Basecamp Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City makes a great gateway for travelers making a trip to Utah's ski resorts or southward to Utah’s renowned red rock country. Frequently referred to as the "Crossroads of the West," its location is also ideal for longer roadtrips northward to Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. Though as those who attempt to pass through often find, you'll frequently talk yourself into staying longer than you expected.

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Hotels & Lodging

Explore a variety of hotels and lodging in the Salt Lake City area. Stay at a luxury resort in the heart of downtown or at one of the many nearby ski resorts. Or, find an affordable room with immediate access to nearby recreation. Whatever brought you to Salt Lake City, there are plenty of places to stay.

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Restaurants & Bars

Excellent international fare and local specialties are never far away from downtown Salt Lake, where the culinary and brewing scenes have grown steadily over the past years.

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