Finding Winter Solitude in Bluff

The first time I visited Southeastern Utah in winter, it was a journey of mixed emotions. Due to a variety of work and family circumstances, I was facing my first Christmas alone. As much as I had grown to love hiking in Utah’s red rock canyons, my decision to explore the area in late December was mostly an attempt to “survive the holidays alone.”

My previous trips to canyon country had all been during the height of the busy season. Visiting in winter was going to be a new experience, and part of me wondered whether I was making a big mistake. Should I be heading out to the cold desert when everyone else was celebrating with their families? Or find myself alone on an icy trail, realizing that I was out of my comfort zone?

Thankfully, neither of those scenarios happened. What I found instead was the same stunning landscape I had grown to love in spring and summer, but with a tranquility I hadn’t experienced before. I had already grown to embrace the Utah desert as my sanctuary, the place I could go to disconnect from the stresses of everyday life. But somehow, the winter stillness made me feel more deeply connected to the landscape. The trails were quiet, and the few hikers I did encounter seemed like kindred spirits, as if we were privy to an inside secret.

In addition to hiking and photography, I wanted to explore some cultural sites on this trip. So, the town of Bluff seemed like the perfect base from which I could do day trips to several places I wanted to visit. Surrounded by dramatic sandstone bluffs, the town of Bluff holds a significant place in Utah history. Mormon settlers arrived in the late 1800s, drawn by the area’s proximity to the San Juan River. Today, you can visit the restored Bluff Fort Historic Site, including cabins, original wagons and a replica of the Co-op Store.

But Bluff’s settlement history started long before the Mormons arrived. Ancestral Puebloans inhabited the area more than 1,000 years ago, and their structures and cliff dwellings are part of what draws both regional and global visitors to the area.

Hovenweep National Monument

(42 miles from Bluff)

Around 1000 A.D. Southeastern Utah was home to the Ancestral Puebloans, who built cliff dwellings and towers throughout the Four Corners area. Many of these ancient ruins are in remote locations that require advanced hiking and route-finding skills. At Hovenweep, however, an easy two-mile loop trail takes you through a cluster of ancient towers and structures considered by many to be some of the finest ancient architecture in the Southwest.

The trail around Little Ruin Canyon loops around the rim before dropping down into the canyon and climbing back up the other side. The first thing I noticed as I made my way down the path from the visitor center was the silence. The occasional call of a canyon wren or a tree branch blowing in the breeze were the only sounds. As I stood on the rim looking at the ancient stone structures that dotted the landscape, I felt as if I’d been granted entry to a sacred lair.

Little Ruin Canyon is the centerpiece of the Square Tower group, the largest collection of ruins at Hovenweep. One of the most impressive structures in the Square Tower group, and a highlight of the hike around Little Ruin Canyon, is the grand Hovenweep Castle. Perched precariously on the edge of the canyon rim, this structure consists of a D-shaped tower and attached room blocks. Archeologists suggest that portholes in one of the Castle’s rooms were situated to mark the winter and summer solstices, which may have enabled residents to estimate growing seasons and planting dates.

The second largest structure in the Square Tower group is Twin Towers. These two citadels, one oval and one horseshoe-shaped, have walls so close together they almost touch. According to archeologists, the Twin Towers display some of the most advanced masonry skills of any ancient dwelling in the Southwest.

Be sure to pick up a printed guide in the visitor center to learn about the history of the structures you’ll see on the trail.

Responsible travel tip: Indigenous and other historical and cultural sites are everywhere in Utah, and they are important to modern descendant communities and researchers. Protect these sites by observing and admiring structures, objects, rock imagery and historical inscriptions from a respectful distance. Visitor should also stick to designated trails and read and follow all signage.

Weather and Winter Gear

Southern Utah’s high desert environment means that day and night temperatures can vary significantly. Conditions can also change rapidly in winter months, so always be prepared for wintry weather and check road conditions for the route you’ll be traveling. The following items will help you be prepared for winter hiking and outdoor activities:

• Winter coat plus a lighter jacket for warmer daytime temperatures
• Warm accessories (hat, socks, gloves, scarf)
• Insulating layers (wool or synthetic base layers, fleece jacket)
• Hiking boots
• Microspikes (for walking on icy trails)
• Sunscreen and sunglasses
• Water and portable snacks

Lodging in Bluff

Bluff Gardens Cabins: one-bedroom cabins with full kitchens and radiant heat floors

Desert Rose Inn: lodge rooms and cabins with rustic chic-style decor

Bluff Dwellings Resort: luxury rooms and suites in a red rock setting

Winter Dining Options

Canyon Smokehouse (Bluff): dinner

Cedar Shack Café (Bluff Dwellings Resort): breakfast, dinner

Cow Canyon Coffee (Bluff): coffee, breakfast

Twin Rocks Café (Bluff): breakfast, lunch

Stagecoach Restaurant at Goulding’s Lodge (Monument Valley): breakfast, lunch, dinner

* Some of the options above are only open on certain days during winter and close for an extended period during the holidays. Always check opening hours with the establishment prior to your trip.