Winter Road Trip: Where to Stay, Hike and Eat When Traveling from Capitol Reef to Bryce Canyon
Scoring solitude on the famous trails of a national park is an experience like no other. While many travelers shy away from a chilly outdoor adventure, winter proves to be the best season to hit the road in search of peaceful paths. Case in point: Scenic Highway 12 connecting Capitol Reef National Park to Bryce Canyon National Park.
Traveling along Scenic Highway 12 any time of the year is a truly wondrous driving experience. But wintertime life along this stretch of highway revels in fewer cars, sparse parking lots and affordable lodging, a stark contrast to its busy season. Bookended by Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon (both of which are open during the winter), there’s plenty to see between these two illustrious national parks.Winter visitors should note that many area restaurants take a break from November through February. A handful of locations try and remain open, but may offer limited hours. It's always a good idea to call ahead, and to pack some extra provisions, in the event that local eats are not available. (Read: Dining Between the Mighty Five)
Map Your Route
You can begin your winter road trip at either end, Torrey for Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon City on the flip side. The path between is marked by two little towns — Escalante and Boulder. By taking the scenic drive between the parks, you can see Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, and much more.
Feeling ready to make the trip between Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon? Give yourself a head start and check out the following itinerary. And while you’re at it, don’t forget to check out these handy winter packing tips.
"By taking the scenic drive between the parks, you can see Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the Escalante Petrified Forest State Park and much more."
Day One: Capitol Reef National Park
Capitol Reef's winding canyons and Parisian boulevard-like washes offer stunning displays of the power of wind and water to shape the land. And it is essentially empty during the winter months – perfect for family vacations or weekend getaways.
What To Do
Take delight in the view of snowcapped Entrada and Navajo sandstone formations of the park's Waterpocket Fold from Scenic Byway 24 or enjoy the park's many hikes from trailheads along S.R. 24, when conditions permit. In the winter, Capitol Reef's visitor center is open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. except on major holidays. If you're interested in winter camping at Capitol Reef, keep in mind that it will be fairly empty so make sure to be prepared with food, water and supplies. And take note of the weather, with overnight lows of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 to -1 Celsius) from December to March.
Where To Stay: Torrey
Set up base camp in: Torrey, Utah, only eight miles from Capitol Reef National Park. This tiny town (a population of 240) spans just a few blocks along State Route 24 and touts a general store and gas station, and easy opportunities to grab a hearty meal, coffee or ice cream to fuel your day’s adventure. (Read: An Insider’s Guide to Torrey)
Broken Spur is one of the most affordable lodging options open off-season (March to mid-November) in Torrey. The homey, family-run establishment is the type of place with Zane Grey books in the lobby and a hearty western breakfast included.
The Red Sands Hotel & Spa is also open in the winter. For pre- or post-hike relaxing, the hotel offers an outdoor fire pit, stargazing deck, indoor pool and library, plus a spa that provides treatments specific to hiking recovery, including massage, a zero-gravity float tub, body wraps and scrubs and guided meditations. An onsite eatery serves up coffee, sandwiches, burgers and local craft beer.
Where To Eat
The Pioneer Kitchen sits across from The Rim Rock at the Capitol Reef Resort. This family-style restaurant serves up tasty, hearty meals like short rib stew, pork chops, enchiladas, pasta and much more. It’s a perfect stop after a long day of hiking at the park.
It’s easy to spot Wild Rabbit Cafe on Torrey’s Main Street. Open on weekends during the winter, the counter-service cafe offers hearty breakfast and lunch options: bagel egg sandwiches, homemade pastries, soups and sandwiches. Sit on the outdoor patio if the winter sun feels warm, or grab a spot indoors if the sun is hiding.
Capitol Reef National Park
Photo: Andrew Burr
Day Two: Grand Staircase-Escalante
For more than 25 years, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument has wowed visitors with its incredible cliffs, terraces, and rugged terrain. This stunning monument offers a diverse range of monoliths, slot canyons, natural bridges and arches. Additionally, the Anasazi and Fremont cultures had a strong presence in this area. Visitors can see rock art panels, campsites, occupation sites, and granaries dating back to 950-1100 AD. (Read: How to Visit Rock Imagery Sites Like an Archaeologist)
What To Do
For unique scenic drives, jump on Scenic Highway 12 or check out Hell’s Backbone Road. Looking for some great hiking trails? Calf Creek Falls, Coyote Gulch, and Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Gulch are sure to impress. To learn more about the rich history of the area, visit the Escalante Petrified Forest State Park or the Anasazi State Park Museum.
Where To Stay: Escalante or Boulder
Either Escalante or Boulder makes a great home base for touring around Grand Staircase for today — or for the next few days. There’s so much to explore, you may want to stay an extra day or two.
If you find yourself stopping for a night in Boulder, the Boulder Mountain Lodge has spacious rooms in a variety of configurations. Whether you’re looking for something that’s dog-friendly or need a full kitchen, this lodge offers flexible accommodations and great views for everyone.
If your plans include Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Gulch or Hole-In-The-Rock, Canyon Country Lodge in Escalante is the closest option. Offering views of Boulder Mountain, this newer Craftsman-style hotel overlooks its township and offers deluxe rooms, an onsite restaurant grill, an indoor pool and even Tesla charging stations.
Where To Eat
Canyon Grill at the Canyon Country Lodge is open Sunday to Thursday in the winter months, with a curated menu of seasonal favorites.
Bryce Canyon is the highest elevation out of Utah’s Mighty 5 and often gets heavy snow.
Bryce Canyon National Park
Day Three/Four: Bryce Canyon National Park
Due to its snow-capped hoodoos and sparsely-trafficked trails, winter in Bryce Canyon is truly spectacular. Bryce Canyon National Park is a world-renowned area, famous for its abundant hoodoos spitting out of the canyon floor like giant stalagmites. Some hoodoos are small while others are as large as 10-story buildings. The park is the highest elevation out of Utah’s Mighty 5 and often gets heavy snow, which makes for a startling contrast to the red rock hoodoos. It also hints at the forces of nature behind the creation of miles of the stunning landscape.
What To Do
In the better snow years, Bryce has one of the best winter scenes around, with opportunities to check out snowshoes for rim hikes and a Winter Festival at the gateway town of Bryce Canyon City. There is also cross-country skiing in and around the park, and certain spurs of the road are intentionally left unplowed for winter sports and other fun activities.
Otherwise, check at the Bryce Canyon Visitor Center for current conditions — trails may require additional traction to safely use — or keep the camera handy for photos from stunning overlooks into the amphitheaters of Bryce Canyon with the warmth of your vehicle always nearby.
See winter park alerts here and learn more about the President's Day Weekend Winter Festival, one of the park's most popular cold-weather events.
Where To Stay: Bryce Canyon City
Intrepid pioneer and rancher Reuben “Ruby” C. Syrett founded Ruby’s Inn after settling in the area in 1916 to ranch. These days, the hotelier has two lodges on either side of the highway and is home to one of the only liquor stores in the area. The rooms are clean and situated nicely at the edge of the park boundary. It owns much of the land adjacent to the park and offers a slew of wintertime activities on the property.
Where to Eat
Ruby's Inn Cowboy's Buffet & Steak Room offers family-friendly dining with a Western theme.
Scenic Byway 12
Photo: Larry Price
Winter Driving Tip for Scenic Byway 12
Warning: Take your time while driving Scenic Byway 12. This winding road is open year-round, but after major winter storms, sections might be impassable until plowed, and ice can make some sections white-knucklers, especially on the Boulder Mountain stretch during the winter. Before leaving home, check the tread on your tires and before hitting the road each day, check the weather to avoid getting stuck in a sudden snowstorm.
01
A Winter Trip Through the Heart of Utah’s Desert
Experience a world unlike anything you’ve ever imagined in the high desert mountains and plummeting canyons of south-central Utah. You’ll step into two national parks, three state parks, and all the scenic winding roads your heart could desire.
Highlights
- Bryce Canyon National Park
- Explore Goblin's Lair
- Wander Capitol Reef's Historic Fruita
- Journey through South-Central Utah
- Winter Hiking
02
Winter Aglow in Southeastern Utah
Find your sense of adventure and awe in the vast yet intricate swaths of desert from Arches National Park to Monument Valley. From delicate river-fed ecosystems to crimson-hued rock buttresses, this magical landscape is awash in history, dating back thousands of years to the original Native American settlers to whom these places were sacred.
Highlights
- Arches National Park
- Canyonlands National Park
- Castle Valley
- Bears Ears National Monument
- Goosenecks State Park
03
Winter's Summits and Rockscapes
There’s no better way to experience a bit of everything Utah offers. Ski its heavenly powder snow, then point your car southward to wind your way through the exquisite Bryce Canyon National Park, Zion National Park and a series of crimson-hued state park gems along the way.
Highlights
- Stargaze at Bryce Canyon National Park
- Ski Sundance Resort
- Hike in Zion National Park
- Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park
- Kodachrome Basin State Park
04
Larger Than Life: Winter in Southwestern Utah
This desert is dramatic. In a really good way. Experience the towering heights of Zion, the depths of Buckskin Gulch, the dunes of Snow Canyon, the sunset over Gooseberry. Southern Utah’s wilds are wearing their winter splendor.
Highlights
- Zion National Park
- Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park
- Best Friends Animal Sanctuary
- Mountain Biking on a Red Rock Mesa
- Hike Zion's Most Iconic Trails
Explore More
-
Iconic Classics
Looking to spend a week on the open roads of Southern Utah? Spend your Utah destinations vacation at The Mighty 5 — our iconic national parks — and at the equally majestic national monuments and state parks in between.
-
Parks & Outdoors
Utah's national parks feature some of the most astonishing landscapes in the world. But other lands in Utah promise just as much allure, including state parks, and national monuments and recreations areas. It's safe to call these our hidden gems.
-
Road Trips
Utah is a hard state to beat when it comes to scenic road trips. Find breathtaking routes and gorgeous backroads in this guide to Utah road trips.
Discover More
-
Moonscapes, Marscapes and More
If you want to know what Mars looks like — then the dramatic terrain of Capitol Reef National Park and the surrounding lands are a good place to start.
-
Winter Wonders in Greater Zion
As you’re mapping out your winter trip through southeastern Utah, consider adding the following parks and natural wonders to your itinerary.
-
Hole N'' the Rock
Your road trip in Moab might call for a stopover at the famous Hole N” The Rock.
-
The All-American Road: Scenic Byway 12
This is 122.863 miles (to be exact) of pure driving bliss. Welcome to Utah’s Scenic Byway 12, a designated All-American Road.
-
See the Fall Leaves Near Utah's National Parks
Sure, any of Utah’s Mighty 5 national parks are spectacular year round — covered in snow, peppered with spring wildflowers, and baked in sunshine. But find them exponentially special when the changing fall leaves are in juxtaposition to the immaculate red rock cliffs.
-
Kiva Koffeehouse
Kiva Koffeehouse is a welcome stop for fresh food and espresso tucked on a hillside down a dirt driveway near milepost 73 on the scenic byway.
-
A Visitor's Guide to Zion's Kolob Canyons
In the Kolob Canyons section of Zion National Park, you’ll find a scenic wonderland with an adventure for everyone. Learn more about this unforgettable attraction and plan a visit.
-
Mesa Farm Market
Best local shops and healthy eats near Moab and Capitol Reef. Try the goat cheese!
-
Ancient Pictographs, Petroglyphs and Timeless Mysteries
Exploring Horseshoe Canyon isn’t for everyone. First of all, the effort to get there is an adventure in itself, but those efforts make the reward — namely, the chance to see up close some of the most significant pictograph panels in North America — even more noteworthy.
-
Boomer Travel: 76 Hours in Moab
Moab, Utah is a prime destination for Baby Boomer travel. Check out our specially-designed itinerary and plan your visit!
-
Movies Filmed in Utah: Plotting a Cinematic Drive-Through
Follow a Germany-based film enthusiast on an extended road trip to discover the rich history of Utah cinematography.
-
Year-round Vibrance on the Nebo Loop Byway
A National Scenic Byway that Enchants at High Elevations, by Road or Trail
-
Serenity Found in Torrey and Capitol Reef’s Cathedral Valley District
Taking Southern Utah’s remote, less-traveled path in Capitol Reef's Cathedral Valley District to nurture your body, mind and spirit.
-
Utah’s Unexpected Pit Stops
You’re doing it wrong if you think road trip pit stops are boring layovers on your way to more exciting destinations. How many of these hidden gems have you been to? Here are 11 mini-adventures to check off your list next time you’re road-tripping through Utah.
-
Chasing John Wesley Powell: Six Places to Explore Utah's Green and Colorado Rivers
One hundred and fifty years ago a one-armed Civil War veteran set off with nine mountain men on a scientific expedition to map one of the last blank spaces left on the U.S. map: The Green and Colorado rivers. Much of the river remains wild today. Follow Powell's journey here.
-
A Van Lifer’s Guide to Responsible Travel in Southern Utah
When Utah’s dirt roads are calling you, it’s time to plan your van life road trip. Here’s what you need to know to travel safely, protect Utah’s rural communities, and help preserve sensitive desert landscapes.
-
Touring the Dinosaur Diamond Prehistoric Highway
Discover dinosaurs in Utah. The Dinosaur Diamond Prehistoric Highway is one of the best places to see dinosaurs in Utah.
-
Arrive by Train
Follow author Tim Sullivan and his eight-year-old daughter as they travel by train, bus and bike on a "pilgrimage" to Golden Spike National Historic Site.
-
A Quick Guide to the Bonneville Salt Flats
Here's everything you need to know to visit and plan for Salt Lake City's nearby Bonneville Salt Flats.
-
The Story of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park
Ancient erosion and modern cinema joined forces to elevate Monument Valley to one of the world's most iconic places to visit — but it's also the sacred home of the Navajo people. Learn more about the history, size and scenes that define the Monument Valley Utah experience.
-
Reef Walking, Petroglyphs and Bones
Check out the world’s densest concentration of dinosaur bones at Cleveland Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry and explore other prehistoric wonders around Utah.
-
Riding the Arapeen OHV Trail of Central Utah
Looking for the best off-roading trails in Utah? You have to try the Arapeen OHV Trail, featuring hundreds of miles of scenic backcountry trails in Central Utah. Start planning now!
-
Roaming Grand Staircase–Escalante
Ace Kvale is a photographer and guide in Boulder, Utah. Whenever possible, he hikes Utah's Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument with his dog.
-
San Rafael Swell Throughout the Seasons: 4 Reasons to Visit
From narrow slot canyons to grand sweeping vistas, sandstone plateaus to meandering rivers, San Rafael Country and the San Rafael Swell are home to some of the most spectacular scenery in Utah.
-
Hidden Secrets of the Jurassic National Monument's Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry
The Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry of Jurassic National Monument is an opportunity to learn about prehistoric animals and see a working archaeologists’ dig.
